Ride report - Iris' Wild West Ride

There’s an art to being a cowgirl. It can mean broken nails, sweaty hair, and a dirty face. Some of us have mastered that art better than others - or so I’m thinking as I look at our guide, Val, picture-perfect in her nice chaps and vintage cowgirl shirt. Me? I’ve collected a fresh set of cuts and bruises, torn holes in the two pairs of breeches I’ve packed, and my shirt is more sweat and dirt than fabric. Oh well.

Despite her American accent, Val was born to French parents and is a bit of a globetrotter, having lived all over the world from a young age. She first came to Utah nearly 15 years ago, on the same ride. She met a cowboy, fell in love, and eventually moved to the US. Now a fully-fledged American citizen, she hasn’t forgotten her roots, as evidenced by the Camembert she picked up at the supermarket (9 dollars for a camembert!). As a fellow Frenchwoman, I am slightly embarrassed to admit that I passed on the cheese and went for some good ol’ American snacks instead. ‘Will I be asked to hand back my passport?’  I wonder, as I stuff another peanut butter cup into my mouth…

We met Val for the first time in the lobby of our hotel in St George, Utah. The cowboy hat gave her away. We didn’t know it then, but we faced a gritty, glorious and sometimes gruelling adventure through some of America’s most spectacular landscapes: Zion, Bryce and the Grand Canyon.

Our journey began on the banks of the Paria River, east of St George, where we met the founder of the riding holiday outfit, Mel Heaton, and his family. Mel is a true pioneer. Would you believe -- he actually created this ride back in the 1970s especially for the legendary Anne Mariage, a true equestrian adventurer and the founder of Equus Journeys’ parent company in France, Cheval d’Aventure. Back then, they camped in tiny tents with no mattresses and barely any equipment.

I expected some improvements after 50 years, but I didn’t anticipate quite this level of comfort in the Wild West: big airy tents, camp beds with inflatable mattresses, and a proper camp kitchen. We even had a portable loo! Not exactly the Four Seasons, but certainly a welcome setup given the remoteness of our camps. And at night, we slept under a beautiful night sky with countless stars. Who needs five-star luxury when you can have a billion-star view?

Mel, now 82, no longer rides but remains the engine of the operation and the self-appointed head chef. Every day, he treats us to hearty breakfasts (his pancakes are worth the trip alone) and delicious dinners. His son Justin now runs the logistics, with help from his daughters. It’s a true family affair. Val’s husband, Cade, also chips in, helping with camp life and even giving us a roping lesson one evening. Unfortunately, our skills still need some work. We barely manage to lasso a very patient… camp chair!

We meet the horses that first evening on the Paria. I take a quick look before the sun sets, knowing how much the right horse can shape a trip. They’re all in good condition, friendly and relaxed. Over the next ten days, I’ll get to know them well: Cisco, who always wants to lead; Scout, who needs a soft approach and a sniff before letting you touch him (a throwback to his pre-trail life); Indy, who loves having her ears scratched; and my own horse, Rhino, who will do tricks for treats.

After a blustery first night and an abandoned attempt at sleeping under the stars (wind, bats, etc), we’re properly introduced to our horses. Val matches us up carefully. I’m paired with a palomino Quarter Horse: older, but still keen and full of energy. We set off on our first ride through Paria Canyon in sweltering heat (nearly 100°F / 40°C). Val had warned us to bring plenty of water and to stay hydrated, but the heat catches up with one of the riders. Towards the end of the day, she has a bit of a wobble, testing our mettle. Val gives calm, clear instructions to cool her down by the river and move her to shade. Two Swiss riders help carry her. When she starts chuckling about their big muscles, we know she’s going to be fine!

The heat doesn’t last, and soon we’re treated to a proper thunderstorm. The rain, when it comes, is a welcome break from the heat. We do get drenched (those of us who remembered waterproofs fared slightly better, but barely), but spirits remain high. After one particularly intense downpour, a break in the clouds gives us just 15 minutes to unload the trailer and set up camp. Everyone pitches in, and camp goes up in record time. This is very much a hands-on holiday: guests are expected to help put up and break down camp, lend a hand with meals, and do the washing up. No rest for the wicked!

Each ride is more beautiful than the last. The route is clearly designed to avoid crowds, and we’re treated to some breathtaking viewpoints with no one else in sight. The final day is the highlight: after days of riding through endless sagebrush, the land suddenly drops away, revealing the vastness of the Grand Canyon’s North Rim. Just us, the horses, and this immense geological wonder. It’s almost too much to take in. No one says a word. I catch another guest quietly wiping away a tear.

That night, I fall asleep in my cot at a little-known viewpoint on the Grand Canyon’s edge, thinking of Anne Mariage. She used to wonder about the stars above. These days, I can pull out my phone and name each one using an app. I wonder what she would have thought of that, she who used to ban watches on a ride (very much a ‘We eat when we’re hungry, we sleep when we’re tired’ kind of gal). She might not have approved of my iPhone photography or digital stargazing, but I hope she would have been proud of what her legacy has become.

Anne passed away in 2018, but her spirit lives on in the horses, the trail, the campfire stories, and every star overhead!

To find out more about our rides in the USA, please visit our website. You can also contact us directly at info@equus-journeys.com or +44 (0)1905 388 977.

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