Delta Diary, part 2 - Macatoo
A riding safari in the Okavango Delta is on the bucket list of many horseback adventurers, evoking pictures of incredible wildlife encounters, bush dinners under the stars, and exhilarating splashy canters across wide open floodplains.
I arrived at Macatoo in the middle of March as part of a big Okavango Delta tour. No splashy canters for me: the Delta isn’t flooded in March (the flood season normally runs June-September), and an unprecedented drought had made it drier than ever, with just a few residual waterholes dotting the sparse bush.
One of Macatoo’s lead guides, Chief, picked me up from another camp, and I was lucky enough to get my own personal game drive to Macatoo—a couple of hours in the jeep across the Delta. Chief navigated the landscape incredibly well, relying on his natural GPS to safely drive us across the plains. No mean feat in an environment where all trees look the same, with very few natural landmarks to take a bearing from.
I loved Macatoo the minute I arrived. It is a strange feeling, arriving at a camp that has been one of my best-selling safaris for so many years! I felt right at home, and it was so lovely to meet the team that had been so popular with our guests: Bongwe (who’s been at Macatoo for over 20 years!); Chief and his relaxed, respectful approach to the wildlife; Thabo with his indecipherable sense of humor and love for a good blast across the plains.
Macatoo has a “no time to lose” policy, and I was able to join the first afternoon ride. I had just enough time to take a peek into my tent, get changed, gobble up a piece of cake, and off we went. Chief had previously asked me about my horse preferences, and the beautiful Blake was waiting for me at the stables—a lovely, well-behaved but forward grey 14.2hh with a sparkle in his eye and a spring in his step! Every guest gets to ride 2-3 different horses during a typical 7-night stay: this allows the horses to be fit and forward, able to cope with the long hours in the saddle and faster pace. My next horse was Tseretse, a 15.2 bay gelding with a very sweet disposition. Both were fantastic rides, although I will admit I was particularly fond of Blake. Camp manager Katie was very happy to hear that, as she started Blake under saddle herself.
The afternoon rides at Macatoo are relaxed and designed to get you closer to the wildlife, enjoying the beautiful golden hour. The morning rides are another story, a fast & furious affair with lots of canters and gallops… expect sand and grit in every crack and crevice. My advice? Try to be at the front if you don’t want to eat some serious dust, at least in the dry season!
To say this is a well-oiled machine is an understatement. Both managers, Katie and Bongwe, are experts at making sure everything runs smoothly. Every day is unique and comes with a fresh batch of excitement. Sharing all these small “surprises” with you would really spoil your fun… Perhaps I’ll share just one: an incredible dinner under the stars (if you’ve been, you will be familiar with the famous Macatoo “pizza nights”) when an uninvited hyena came to check us out and perhaps see if she could steal some dessert. Unfortunately, the malva cake was really quite good, and we were not prepared to share. Sorry, missy!
I had the chance to ride with two different guides, each with distinct guiding styles. Thabo has been at Macatoo for a long time. He has a wealth of knowledge, a dry sense of humor, and likes to kick up some dust! We covered a lot of ground on Thabo’s morning rides, with some long canters and a cheeky gallop or two. Chief has a more relaxed approach to the riding (although his rides are by no means slow) and likes to approach the wildlife in a more indirect manner. Both guides were excellent and knowledgeable, and we felt we were in very good hands. Our backup guides were also very attentive and quick to offer advice, pass on additional information, and even take pictures/videos for us.
Of course, you go on safari for the wildlife experience. We were not disappointed. I narrowly missed a lion sighting on the day I arrived—a small pride was spotted around camp at breakfast. I was told they were lounging right in front of what was to be my tent! A somewhat unsettling thought, to be sure. Although Macatoo is a fenced camp to keep elephant and buffalo out, guests must be cautious when walking around. Fortunately, the only wildlife encounter I had at camp was with an adorable female bushbuck and her calf. Every day I made a point of looking down at the sandy tracks to see if I could spot anything interesting. I’m afraid my spotting skills need some honing, as I was only able to spot the elusive Birkenstock… curiously headed west, which happened to be just where the bar was.
We saw lots of wildlife, including some rare sightings of a roan antelope and honey badger. Elephants are very common in the Delta, and we were treated to some excellent sightings. We enjoyed a particularly delightful half an hour around a nearby waterhole, watching a family of elephants come to drink. Camp owner John flew in on the same day I arrived and spotted a really busy waterhole from the air. He suggested we forego the afternoon ride the next day, pack a few drinks, and get there before it dried up. A few of us had already been on safari, including two South Africans with extensive wildlife experience, but even they were absolutely amazed by the quantity of wildlife around this particular waterhole. Hundreds of elephants, zebra, impala, birds, a few crocs, and hyenas, all cohabiting somewhat peacefully for a few instants around the water, a lifeline in those particularly dry times. It is impossible to put into words how special the moment was. I felt very lucky indeed.
There are many things that make a trip to Macatoo extra special—they are hard to put into words, but I hope you get to experience it for yourself one day. There is a reason Macatoo camp has a high number of return guests!
Good to know...
- Arrival and departure are very flexible with a 3-night minimum duration. I would recommend going for a full week to make the most of your trip and enjoy everything Macatoo has to offer.
- Don’t overpack! There is a 20 kg weight limit on the fixed-wing transfer into camp, but you will need very little: towels and all toiletries are provided, and there is a very efficient laundry service.
- If you are paired with a horse that isn’t a great match, please feel free to tell your guide or groom. They will take your comments into account. There is a large stable of horses at Macatoo, so there will be plenty to choose from!
- Come riding fit. The morning rides can be challenging, especially if you are not riding regularly at home. Macatoo is best suited to experienced riders not afraid of long hours and riding at speed. If you are a more novice rider, please contact us, and we will advise you on what options are suitable.
- The dry and the wet season make for a very different experience. Do some research on the Delta (you can read our comprehensive guide to the Delta here!) and please feel free to ask an Equus consultant if you are unsure.
To find out more about the holidays in the Delta, please visit our website. You can also contact us directly at info@equus-journeys.com or give us a call on +44 (0)1905 388 977