Iberian Crossing - An Adventure Between Countries
By FRANCISCA MONTEIRO
Driving into Baiona, a medieval village in Galicia, Spain, I was on the edge of my seat but ready for yet another riding adventure!
As I come from the north of Portugal, I had, as it happens, already visited this area some years back when I cycled the coastal route of the famous Camino de Santiago (a journey of around 300km), and so I thought I knew it quite well.
But as I cruised into Baiona that day, ready to start the Iberian Crossing ride from Spain into Portugal, I was reminded all over again of how pretty the place is.
There’s it’s stunning shoreline facing the Atlantic Ocean, the castle and fortress of Monte Real, and, of course, the steady stream of pilgrims following the iconic yellow arrows north towards Santiago (for those who don’t know, Santiago de Compostela in the north of Spain is the final destination of the Camino de Santiago pilgrimage, and one of the three holy cities of Christianity alongside Rome and Jerusalem).
Side note - For those planning to do the crossing, if you have the time, I’d definitely recommend coming a day earlier: this is the kind of town that deserves more than a quick glance!
Spain: Water-loving horse, wild steeds and wine tasting
When we reached our accommodation for the night, there was only time to quickly change into some riding clothes before our guides, Paloma and Adri, arrived to take us to the stables for our first ride. That was when I met my partner for the week: Farruco, a 6-year-old Galician horse with plenty of energy and, as I quickly discovered, a great love of water! During that introductory ride, he actually walked straight into the lake without a second thought, looking far more relaxed about it than I was.
As expected, the horses were all very well looked after. They live outdoors year-round in a small herd, and consequently, they have character and are fairly forward-going.
The first few days of the trip were spent in Spain, heading south towards Portugal. Here the landscape is mostly mountainous and verdant, and I was very surprised with the number of Galician horses we saw. There is a lot to learn about this breed and who better to ask these questions than Adri? He’s spent most of his life surrounded by them!
There was one section during these first days that I found especially beautiful. It’s a fairly secluded mountain trail that follows the river and showcases a sequence of small waterfalls. The sounds were very relaxing. Apparently, this path wasn’t included in previous trails, in fact, Adri found it when riding in the area and thought it would be a good addition to the itinerary. I have to say, I very much agreed with him.
The day before crossing into Portugal, we had the opportunity to take part in a wine tasting session, which was a great way to transition from one country to the next, if you ask me... We were all welcome at the Terras Gauda winery and were offered different snacks and, of course, wine!
Between sips, as the group made their way from one cheese plate to the next, we learned more about the specific conditions required to grow the different grapes and the various types grown in this area. Anyone that doesn’t believe in the effects of positive reinforcement in the classroom has never experienced a proper wine tasting.
Portugal: Villages, pilgrims and beaches
Whereas in Spain it felt a little more quiet, in Portugal we were right in the middle of the action! There were some sections crossing villages and small towns, (be prepared for some asphalt roads and curious glances), but most of our time was spent either along the river or by the sea, which was a welcome change of scenery. Some parts follow the official Camino, which meant we rode alongside the pilgrims. Maybe it’s just me but I really got the feeling of being part of something bigger. Granted, we were going the opposite way, but that’s a minor detail.
Eventually we got to ride on the beach, which was, of course, the moment that everyone, including the horses, were excited for. We had the opportunity for some great canters, and the ocean breeze was something that we were all grateful for.
A wonderful goodbye
The final dinner was back in Spain at a “Furancho”. These are seasonal, family-run places that turn into small restaurants to sell the surplus wine they have produced. The homemade wine is served alongside simple tapas-style dishes, and the whole experience felt wonderfully authentic. It was the kind of evening where nobody was in a rush to leave.
On the drive back home, Marieke, one of the guests, said: “It’s so weird that we just get to share this amazing week and then we may never see each other again.” That got me thinking… Riding holidays are a bit like a time capsule: you share something intense and memorable with a random group of people, then everyone disappears back into their own lives.
Or do they? I suspect that more than a few of these paths will cross again on yet another horsey adventure somewhere…
Good to know...
- Everything runs on Spanish time, so be ready for late dinners and long lunch breaks. It’s all part of the rhythm, so just enjoy the ride (pun intended!)
- Your luggage will often be carried by members of the local team so, if you can be mindful of weight when packing, I’m sure it will be appreciated.
More information:
To enquire about this trip, please visit our website or contact one of our travel advisors. You can email: info@equus-journeys.com or call us on +44 (0)1905 388 977.